An Otavalo poncho is the woven garment worn by Kichwa men of Otavalo, in the province of Imbabura: a rectangle of wool with an opening for the head, traditionally dark in color, mostly blue, worn over a white shirt and white trousers. There is no single, settled story of its origin: the sources we found agree that weaving in that area predates the arrival of the Spanish, but they differ on the details. Here we tell you what they say, with a link to each one.
A note on transparency: this article is written by Alpaca, a store that makes ponchos with artisan families in Peguche, next to Otavalo. We are not historians and we do not speak on behalf of the Kichwa people of Otavalo. That is why we cite instead of stating things from memory, and we point out what we could not confirm.
What it is, exactly
A poncho is a rectangular piece of cloth with an opening in the center to pass the head through. It hangs from the shoulders and covers the torso and arms. In Otavalo men's dress, as described by a travel magazine, the dark poncho is worn with a white shirt, white calf-length trousers and white espadrilles. El Comercio says something similar: white trousers, shirt and espadrilles, completed with a poncho and hat, which are the most expensive pieces of the outfit.
Where and when it began: what the sources say
We need to be careful here, because the versions do not fully agree.
- Before the Incas and the Spanish. The North Carolina encyclopedia (NCpedia) says that Otavalo weavers are famous for their wool ponchos, blankets and wall hangings, and that this tradition predates the arrival of the Incas. Wanderlust says something similar: wool weaving in the area predates the Inca conquest of the late 15th century, and the Incas introduced alpaca fiber and more elaborate techniques.
- A garment shared across the Andes. The artisan and researcher Raúl Cabrera, quoted in an El Universo article, argues that the poncho blends cultures and traditions from before the Spanish era, and links it with the Otavalo, Aymara and Quichua cultures, and possibly the Nazca, because of very similar designs. The same article mentions a poncho with identical features on Taquile island, in Peru.
- The colony and the obrajes (textile workshops). A 2015 Vistazo report says that the craft arrived with the Spanish in 1582, when obrajes producing cloth and blankets were established, and that the backstrap loom would have been brought by the Spanish. Wanderlust also mentions the colonial obrajes. This version clashes with the previous one if read literally: the most reasonable reading is that there was weaving before the colony, and that the colony organized production differently. We did not find a source that settles this with certainty, so we do not state it as fact.
The honest summary: weaving in the area is old, the garment is shared with other Andean cultures, and the colony changed how it was produced. We could not verify the exact dates for when the poncho as we know it today appeared.
Colors and meaning: beware of legends
Many explanations of what each color "means" circulate online. The one that does have a source is this one, from El Universo, and it should be read as personal testimony, not as a general rule:
- A double-sided poncho has, according to the article, a main blue side and another side in light colors with checkered figures. An Otavalo vendor, Luis Vega, said his grandparents used to say the two sides represent the duality of the universe.
- According to another person interviewed, dark ponchos are worn by married or engaged men, and brightly colored ones indicate youth and being single.
- The same article reports that navy blue used to be dyed with "montes", and that reddish brown, tan and chocolate were obtained with walnut, according to a 70-year-old artisan.
- The double-sided poncho is worn, according to another of the people interviewed, at engagements and important events.
These are individual accounts from a single article. We cannot tell you that "blue means X" for all of Otavalo, and be wary of anyone who says so without citing who said it. What does appear in more than one source is the dark tone: Wanderlust speaks of a dark poncho in men's dress, and NCpedia shows a man in a blue wool poncho and felt hat.
How it was made
The El Universo article describes the process the artisans told them about: the wool is sheared from the sheep, washed in the river and dried in the open air; then it is spun on a spinning wheel, carded with two paddles, brushed and made up. Today, according to Wanderlust, part of what is sold is made with electric machines, while the most valued pieces are woven in family workshops. Ponchos can be made with sheep wool and with camelids such as alpaca, according to the Vistazo report.
Real photo from the workshop: a loom in Peguche, next to Otavalo. More about the craft in our guide to Peguche.
Who wears it today
The sources say things that seem contradictory, and both can be true. Wanderlust says few men wear it every day and that it is usually saved for special occasions. The El Universo article includes the voice of an artisan who laments that the custom is being lost even in Otavalo. At the same time, the poncho is still being sold: El Universo mentions that they are woven to order for foreigners, and that a double-sided poncho can cost up to US$320; El Comercio says a poncho from the men's outfit costs between US$60 and US$500. These are press figures from different dates (the El Universo one is from 2017), so take them as an order of magnitude.
Apart from its use in traditional dress, we sell the poncho as a warm garment for anyone who wants to wear it. It is worth saying this clearly:
So, are Alpaca ponchos Otavalo ponchos?
We make our ponchos in Ecuador with artisan families in Peguche, a weaving village next to Otavalo. They are woven on a loom and the warp is set up by hand in the workshop. But we do not claim they are "the traditional Otavalo poncho": they are ponchos of current design, with colors and sizes designed for everyday use, which come from the same area. Most are 70% alpaca and 30% acrylic; three models (Night Rain, Calm Rain and Imbabura Flower) are 80% cotton and 20% polyester.
If you would like to get to know them, start with the poncho collection or the guide how to choose a poncho. And if you are traveling in the area and want to see the origin of this tradition, the best-known place to see woven goods is the Otavalo market, which we explain in this guide on where to buy. Our story is on the About us page.
Frequently asked questions
What does the color blue mean in the Otavalo poncho?
There is no single verified explanation. What we found is an account: according to an El Universo article, the main side of the double-sided poncho is blue and some people say the two sides represent the duality of the universe. It is a testimony, not a rule for all of Otavalo.
Who wears the poncho in Otavalo?
Kichwa men wear it as part of their dress. According to a travel magazine, few wear it every day today and it is usually saved for special occasions.
How much does an Otavalo poncho cost?
It depends on the piece. Press sources mention prices of up to US$320 for a double-sided one (2017) and between US$60 and US$500 for the poncho of the men's outfit. Alpaca ponchos are something else: they start at about US$30 and prices change, so check the current price in the store.
Is an Otavalo poncho made of alpaca?
It can be, but not always. According to the Vistazo report, ponchos are made with sheep wool and with fiber from camelids such as alpaca. To know what a specific garment is made of, you have to ask for its composition.